The view of the town from West Sands.

My travels back north to Scotland have come to an end. St Andrews is one of my favourite places in the world. Although it is not the town where I “grew up”, it is certainly the town where I learned what being a “grown up” was all about (still learning!). I haven’t been back since Graduation last June. However, as the bus approached St Andrews last Saturday I felt the overwhelming rush of emotion that told me I was coming home.

In some ways it was strange to be back. Sure, there was a new coffee shop on Bell Street, or another shop on South Street was closing down, but for the most part it was unchanged. I felt like if I blinked I could almost pretend these last few months were a dream, that I had never left this little bubble of existence.

The beautiful St Salvator's Quad in the snow.

Of course the main difference that I noticed was not a physical change, but a change in the people. Like myself, so many of my friends had graduated last June, started jobs in London, gone travelling, or returned home. Only a handful of friends who were either taking a fifth year or were in the year below me remained. It was fantastic to see everyone again, but it also made me realise that the strongest tie I have to St Andrews is the people I’ve met. When these last few friends graduate and enter the wide world this summer, what will be left to draw me back to this little windy town by the sea?

I know I will return once more, although I’m not sure when that it will be. Perhaps in a few months time to see everyone graduate, or perhaps many years from now when I can afford a little luxury (Old Course Hotel, anyone?). But for the present, I set out to make the most of my short stay. Most (*cough*all*cough*) of my activities involved food – there are so many wonderful places to eat in St Andrews that I left out at least half of my favourite restaurants. The rest of my time I spent drinking way too much caffeine (I accidentally gave myself palpitations one day because I had too many coffee dates), catching up with friends, and braving the wintery weather as I wandered around my old home.

The view of St Andrews from the Pier.

Below is a brief overview of a few of the yummy places to eat and a few pictures of my favourite places in St Andrews. I hope you enjoy them as I much as I have done (although I was the one who actually got to do all that eating…).

Afternoon Tea at the Old Course Hotel

Every week during term for four years I walked past the Old Course Hotel on my way to my golf lesson. There is a beautiful conservatory right beside the path to the golf practice centre. As I walked by, I would always look in and see elegantly dressed people sipping tea and nibbling on dainty sandwiches and petit fours. Last June, instead of going for a graduation dinner, my parents and I went for Afternoon Tea at the Old Course Hotel. It was absolutely wonderful and I knew that I had to go again during my visit.

Unfortunately, as a student, the Old Course Hotel is rather outside of my definition of “affordable”. But I was lucky that one of my good friends works at the hotel and was able to get an employee discount which brought the meal back into the realms of a student budget.

We were in the Road Hole Restaurant this time instead of in the conservatory. The views are spectacular as the restaurant looks over both the 17th and 18th holes of the Old Course, but also beyond onto West Sands.

For the tea itself, you are given a choice of loose leaf tea or coffee of various sorts. An elegant three-tiered tray contains four types of little sandwiches, plain and fruit scones with jam and clotted cream, lemon pancakes, and a variety of little cakes and petit fours. It is an impressive spread! Additionally, you can add a glass of pink champagne for a price supplement.

Even at full price, the Afternoon Tea is only £19.00 a head. Not bad considering you get a very generous amount of food and in such a stunning location. I would definitely recommend it to those looking for a taste of luxury, but not looking to pay through the roof for it.

Brie, Bacon and Pesto Panini from Gorgeous

This next item is slightly less elegant than tea at the Old Course, but no less delicious. In my first year I discovered this panini shop on Bell Street and in a moment of genius asked for a panini containing brie, bacon, and pesto. Oh. My. God. A more heavenly combination has never been invented. As I watched the lady behind the counter put a half-inch wedge of brie onto the baguette, I knew that this was going to be just as glorious as I remembered it. The best bit was they accepted my ancient loyalty card that had been accumulating stamps for the last three years. Free paninis are the best paninis!

Scottish Tablet from Burns Sweet Shop

Stepping into Burns Sweet Shop feels like entering Honeydukes from Harry Potter. The tiny shop is filled floor to ceiling with large class jars of candy, and the shelves are lined with an impressive array of penny sweets. They also have a great selection of chocolate and truffles. However, when I visit Burns Sweet Shop, I’m often only after one thing – Scottish Tablet.

I am the queen of sweet tooths, so it’s appropriate that tablet is one of my favourite treats ever. I had never had it before I moved to St Andrews and you don’t commonly find it outside of Scotland. It is quite similar to fudge, but grainier and crumblier. It is in essence composed of two things: butter and sugar. It is intensely sweet and is best eaten in small quantities.

Whey Pat Nachos, the Whey Pat Tavern

There are few things more satisfying than tucking into a huge plate of nachos smothered in cheese, sour cream, and salsa. The Whey Pat is famous for its nachos and anyone who goes there are on a Friday night or Saturday afternoon is bound to see several groups of friends enjoying a plate of nachos.

It’s hard to say what makes them so good. I think is has a lot to do with the high cheese to tortilla chip ratio and the massive portion size. I have never even attempted to eat a whole order by myself, and usually it is a struggle to finish a plate between two. I think I must have been starving when I went back because I confess my friend and I had absolutely no difficulties in polishing off this plate of nachos!

We got the basic nachos but you can also get beef chilli nachos, Cajun chicken nachos, or the Scottish classic, haggis nachos. Whichever one you chose, make sure you bring a friend and come hungry!

Fish & Chips, Tailend Restaurant and Fish Bar

Tailend Fish and Chips is a relatively new addition to the St Andrews cheap eats scene, having opened only a few years back. They operate as restaurant, takeaway chippy, and fishmonger combined. Tailend quickly earned itself a reputation of amazing fish and chips that has even rivalled the famous Anstruther Fish & Chips. I would have loved to visit both, but for the sake of my arteries, I decided to limit myself to just the chip shop in St Andrews (I know… such self-control, right?).

Firstly, how were the chips? Last summer my mum and I developed a “chip scale” on which we could rate the chips we tasted in various pubs and restaurants. We decided that the main criteria for the perfect chip were that it had to be hot, crispy and thick cut. It’s a tragedy how seldom you actually are served a chip with all of these attributes at once. Yet Tailend managed to accomplish this magnificent feat and it was with glee that I tucked into my plate of chips.

The fish is also superb. The qualities that set the fish apart are the crispiness of the batter, the freshness of the fish, and the generous portion sizes. I bought a half fish supper and I was completely stuffed. The chicken goujons are also delicious and are a good option for those who aren’t too keen on fish. You can also get deep fried white, red or black pudding, battered haggis, battered burgers, and crispy pizza. A warning to the vegetarians: all of the food is deep friend in beef drippings!

Well that just about rounds up my very brief tour of some of my favourite places to eat in St Andrews. I haven’t included all the fantastic homemade food I had whilst here (roast lamb, tortiere, fajitas, mini-egg brownies…). Let’s just say I ate very, very well this past week.

Frolicking on West Sands!

The PH! If you step on it, you won't finish your degree on time... unless you lift the curse by doing the May Dip.

St Andrews Harbour.

The Cathedral in the snow. Winter seems to follow me around.

Please feel free to share your favourite places to eat. Are you like me and find that when you go back home you tend to organise your social life around all the different restaurants you want to go to?